Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Sewing tutorial

 I have already posted the method of drafting kurti/Straight - Cut  Kameez here is the link drafting tutorial

  Cutting

Fold the fabric according to the hip measurement that is  1/4th of hip + 1.5".and mark the measurements directly on the cloth according to the draft.  

Length                 =               O - L

Neck width          =               O - A

Shoulder              =               O - D

Shoulder drop      =               D - F

Armhole              =               D - E

Chest                   =               From fold to C.

Waist length        =               O-H

Waist                   =                P-Q

hip length            =                O-J

Hip                      =                J-K 

When finished  ,cut along the shape (along the marked scissors in fig 2)

Remember one thing that you have to cut the front and back neckline separately. Also note that you have to cut the front and back armhole separately.  

Fig 2

After cutting, the kameez will look like the one in fig 3.

Fig 3 after cutting 

FIg 4

Cut the sleeves according to the draft. Cut the inner curve shape at the front armhole

(fig 5&6).

Fig 5

Sleeves Fig 6

 First finish the back neckline and front neckline separately.

Fig 7 Back neckline

 Then join the shoulders.

Fig 8 

Sew the back neckline with hand hem or machine stitch. In fig 9 the dotted line indicates hem or machine stitch.

Fig 9

Place center point of the sleeves at the shoulder line (joint) by  keeping right sides together and also matching the armhole front curve to sleeves' front curve. (in Fig 10, O indicates the shoulder joint and N is center of the sleeves) leave 1/2"  from the edge, for seam allowances .

  

Fig 10

Keep pins binding the sleeves to armscye (armhole) and sew along the seam line.  I have shown  the seam line by marking the dots in   the fig 11 .

Fig 11 Sleeves attaching

after attaching the sleeves. 

fig 

fig 13

Join the side edges of the sleeves and right sides of the body together and mark the seam line  by keeping  1" seam allowance from the edge. Start sewing from sleeves and up to slit/side opening.

 (keeping slit length  from hip circumference that is J K  to bottom of the kameez, Repeat the same for the other side of the garment too.
 You can easily understand through the figs 14&15

Fig 14

fig 15 sewed the sides

Fig 16 indicates the slit or opening

Slit opening fig16

Stitch the bottom edge of the kameez by  double folding inside. Stitch the Back and front bottom edges separately.

Slit opening

Stitch the slit from the side edge of the back part to that of the front part, 1/2" above through the joining of the kameez by folding in double towards inside. When you are stitching from back to front, before going to front, stop  1/2" above  where the slit open turn the kameez towards you, stitch across the foldings.

Again turn towards you and start stitching at the end by folding the sides. the images 17,18 and 19 give clear information

Pin over double fold on the back side edge towards the wrong side of the kameez. Start stitching from  bottom to  till 1/2" above of the joining of the sides of kameez,. There, you turn the fabric towards you and stitch across the folding and another side and  turn again and continue stitch until you reach the edge.
Repeat the whole thing for the other side of the garment.

Images 17

image 18

Image 19