How to Stitch an 'A'-line Kurti

This tuorial is on making an "A"-Line Kurti. It is very easy and the draft pattern is quite similar to that of a straight-cut kameez/kurti except for that it widens as we move down and has a flare.  

You can find the drafting in this tutorial. You should note that here, the width AB is (hip + 3"). Hip measurement would be as mentioned in the above tutorial (RS). Take extra 1" along the whole length as seam allowance.

If you would like to give the bottom a curve shape as I've done, then you should mark C as  the midpoint of AB and also BD = 3". Join the points making a curve. YOu can therwise simply go with the straight pattern as it is also equally popular.

The edges of the sides can either be closed or left often as a slit. Further steps are similar to the one in the kameez sewing tutorial. 

Happy sewing!!

How to sew Shoulder

Hello friends! Today, in this tutorial i'm going to teach how to sew shoulder for any garment. 

First finish the front neck line and then stitch the back neckline.  Attach the facing at top side as   picture 1. Don't enclose the edge of the facing, after joining the shoulder, you can stitch on your machine or hand hem.

fig 1

Keep the  back shoulder and front shoulder right sides together and keep the edges and sides coinciding. (see fig 2)

Fig 2

open the facing of the back neckline and keep in line with front neckline.Fig 3

Fig 3

 Turn the facing over the front neckline . Pin it and sew along the dotted lines fig 4

fig 4

  after joining the shoulder it should something like  fig 5

Fig 5

  Now  attach  the back neckline facing to neckline. The dotted line in Fig 6 indicates hand hem/ straight stitch on machine as you wish. Fig 6.

Fig 6

 you can use this method of sewing the shoulders for dresses and frocks and other garments.

Stay-Stitching tutorial

Hello everybody! Here i'm again with another tutorial in the series 'sewing techniques". After having learnt how to do top-stitching, under-stitching we will now see how to stay-stitch.


It is best to stay stitch soon after cutting the neckline. It is stitched only on a single layer of fabric. It prevents the stretching of the curved or angled edge as they are cut across the bias. The bias cut fabric is more stretchable and eventually they lose its shape. Stay stitch is best for retaining the neckline shape.

Stitch the regular length along the curve or bias within the seam allowance. These seams are not visible on the  right side of the garment.

If you Stitch  the neckline, then it is good to start from one shoulder to  the center of the neckline,  and turn the piece and then  start again to sew from the other shoulder to the center of the neckline. Or you can also start from the center and sewing to one shoulder, turn the piece again and sew the center to shoulder.

How to stitch a neckline with facing

 Facing means  a piece of material sewn inside of the garment,especially at the neck and armholes to strengthen it. In this tutorial, I'm gonna tell you how to stitch a neckline with facing.

Firstly, stay stitch around the neckline immediately after cutting the neckline. Now, place the neckline on the folded fabric as in Image 1.

Image 1

  Mark along the neckline carefully as in Image 2.

Image 2

Mark  extra 1 1/2" from the neckline towards outside of the neckline (that is "RR")  PP is original neck line and P R is the width of the neckline facing (image 3).

Image 3

cut the neckline facing (both along RR and PP) Image 4

Image 4

After cutting the neckline facing, stitch the outer side of the edge by folding 1/2"inward and sew along the shape to prevent the threads coming out from here and there along the edges.

Image 5 neckline facing

Lay the right side of the neck line flat, Place the facing on top (,right side to right side). Match the facing around the neckline edges and pin the facing in place (.Image 6)

  

Image 6

Stitch  a seam  at  1/2" in from the edge along the neckline edge . Take care that the seam line follows the curve.   When  stitching  the neckline curve,  stitch slowly and  smoothly, raise the pressure foot and turn  the fabric through slightly  and lower the pressure foot and continue stitching.  Be careful and don't straighten the fabric otherwise it will lose its shape. Clip the seam allowance around the neck  edge with intervals. but don't cut the seams as Image  7
,

Image 7

 pressing the seam allowance towards facing, understitch and  turn the facing towards inside of the neckline. image 8

Image 8

After turning the facing,  topstitch the edge along the neckline image 9 .

that's it!! u re done!!!!  

TIP: You can make necklines of various shapes with this technique, not just a circular one.

        You can also use this technique and add a border to your neckline line as done in this tutorial. 

Please share ur experiences in the comments below.. :) Thanks everybody!!

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Drafting tutorial

It is easy to make a kurti .Here you can learn how to make a kurti through drafting. 

      

     Pattern Drafting

   

     A-B;      C-D                 =              1/4  of  Chest  + 1.5"or 2"

     A-C;      B-D                  =              length  +1 .5" or 1"

     A-E ;      H-I                  =              1/12 of  chest +1/4" 

     A- F                               =              1/2 of shoulder

     B-L;       F-O                 =              1/4 of chest - 1.5 inch.

     A- H                              =               front neck 1/6  

     A- G                              =               back neck  ( the deep of the front and back neck as desired)

     M-N                              =              1/2 inch

     A-P                               =               waist length  ( below the  Breast) ,   

     P-Q                               =               1/4 of waist +1.5" 

     A-R                                =              hip length

     R-S                                =              1/4 of hip +1.5"

     First you mark the shape of armhole "F-M-L". this is back armhole.

     Next take 1/2"   from "M" inside and mark give a shape "N"as in fig front armhole.

    Shoulder drop ( F-J)         =   Mark 1/2"  

  

    Cutting

  

    Give a shape and cut along  "D-L-M-F and  J to E".

    You have to cut the back neck  "G-E". and front neck  "H-E" separately

    Back armhole shape "L-M-F" 

    Now Cut the front armhole shape separately that is L ,N,F.            

   Sleeve:-

  

   A-B ,C-D                            take the same armhole measurement as in kurti or sleeve width +1.5"

   A-C                                     length +  1.5" 

   B -E                                    1/12 of chest  

   K -H                                   inside 1/2".

   C - G                                  half of sleeve round + 1"

   Draw the shape and cut along the outside marking (G -E -K -F)to obtain the shape of the sleeve.

   After getting the shape again you have to cut the front sleeve depth  that is "F-H -E" as front        armhole depth.

   These measurements are including seam allowances.

Sleeve

Another Kurti Idea...

one more kurti that i sewed just yesterday... purple.. one of my fav colors.. with 3/4 sleeve . 

the design below the neckline... i embroidered it.. the green border is actually modified buttonhole stitch.. there's a mirror in the centre bounded by red colored mirror stitch.. the yellow part is a stitch known as 'kamala stitch' .. yeah.. thats same as my name :).. the red around the yellow is chain stitch..

i hope u liked it.. c u all soon.. till then take gud care of urselves... b'bye everyone...

Some more Kurti designs

Hey everyone! i'm glad i'm back so early.... this tym just to pass my time i sewed these salwar kameez sets.. two different kurtis... 

this first one , the green one, i sewed puff sleeves for it.. i sewed puff sleeves after a really long time... but thank god! i still remember it!

this one is another simple kurti as u can see...

these cotton kurtis are a real comfort in scorching summers.. a great refuge from the hot sun... :) hope u guys liked these...  until my nxt post keep sewing n following me... b'bye......