How to Stitch an 'A'-line Kurti

This tuorial is on making an "A"-Line Kurti. It is very easy and the draft pattern is quite similar to that of a straight-cut kameez/kurti except for that it widens as we move down and has a flare.  

You can find the drafting in this tutorial. You should note that here, the width AB is (hip + 3"). Hip measurement would be as mentioned in the above tutorial (RS). Take extra 1" along the whole length as seam allowance.

If you would like to give the bottom a curve shape as I've done, then you should mark C as  the midpoint of AB and also BD = 3". Join the points making a curve. YOu can therwise simply go with the straight pattern as it is also equally popular.

The edges of the sides can either be closed or left often as a slit. Further steps are similar to the one in the kameez sewing tutorial. 

Happy sewing!!

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Sewing tutorial

 I have already posted the method of drafting kurti/Straight - Cut  Kameez here is the link drafting tutorial

  Cutting

Fold the fabric according to the hip measurement that is  1/4th of hip + 1.5".and mark the measurements directly on the cloth according to the draft.  

Length                 =               O - L

Neck width          =               O - A

Shoulder              =               O - D

Shoulder drop      =               D - F

Armhole              =               D - E

Chest                   =               From fold to C.

Waist length        =               O-H

Waist                   =                P-Q

hip length            =                O-J

Hip                      =                J-K 

When finished  ,cut along the shape (along the marked scissors in fig 2)

Remember one thing that you have to cut the front and back neckline separately. Also note that you have to cut the front and back armhole separately.  

Fig 2

After cutting, the kameez will look like the one in fig 3.

Fig 3 after cutting 

FIg 4

Cut the sleeves according to the draft. Cut the inner curve shape at the front armhole

(fig 5&6).

Fig 5

Sleeves Fig 6

 First finish the back neckline and front neckline separately.

Fig 7 Back neckline

 Then join the shoulders.

Fig 8 

Sew the back neckline with hand hem or machine stitch. In fig 9 the dotted line indicates hem or machine stitch.

Fig 9

Place center point of the sleeves at the shoulder line (joint) by  keeping right sides together and also matching the armhole front curve to sleeves' front curve. (in Fig 10, O indicates the shoulder joint and N is center of the sleeves) leave 1/2"  from the edge, for seam allowances .

  

Fig 10

Keep pins binding the sleeves to armscye (armhole) and sew along the seam line.  I have shown  the seam line by marking the dots in   the fig 11 .

Fig 11 Sleeves attaching

after attaching the sleeves. 

fig 

fig 13

Join the side edges of the sleeves and right sides of the body together and mark the seam line  by keeping  1" seam allowance from the edge. Start sewing from sleeves and up to slit/side opening.

 (keeping slit length  from hip circumference that is J K  to bottom of the kameez, Repeat the same for the other side of the garment too.
 You can easily understand through the figs 14&15

Fig 14

fig 15 sewed the sides

Fig 16 indicates the slit or opening

Slit opening fig16

Stitch the bottom edge of the kameez by  double folding inside. Stitch the Back and front bottom edges separately.

Slit opening

Stitch the slit from the side edge of the back part to that of the front part, 1/2" above through the joining of the kameez by folding in double towards inside. When you are stitching from back to front, before going to front, stop  1/2" above  where the slit open turn the kameez towards you, stitch across the foldings.

Again turn towards you and start stitching at the end by folding the sides. the images 17,18 and 19 give clear information

Pin over double fold on the back side edge towards the wrong side of the kameez. Start stitching from  bottom to  till 1/2" above of the joining of the sides of kameez,. There, you turn the fabric towards you and stitch across the folding and another side and  turn again and continue stitch until you reach the edge.
Repeat the whole thing for the other side of the garment.

Images 17

image 18

Image 19

How to sew Shoulder

Hello friends! Today, in this tutorial i'm going to teach how to sew shoulder for any garment. 

First finish the front neck line and then stitch the back neckline.  Attach the facing at top side as   picture 1. Don't enclose the edge of the facing, after joining the shoulder, you can stitch on your machine or hand hem.

fig 1

Keep the  back shoulder and front shoulder right sides together and keep the edges and sides coinciding. (see fig 2)

Fig 2

open the facing of the back neckline and keep in line with front neckline.Fig 3

Fig 3

 Turn the facing over the front neckline . Pin it and sew along the dotted lines fig 4

fig 4

  after joining the shoulder it should something like  fig 5

Fig 5

  Now  attach  the back neckline facing to neckline. The dotted line in Fig 6 indicates hand hem/ straight stitch on machine as you wish. Fig 6.

Fig 6

 you can use this method of sewing the shoulders for dresses and frocks and other garments.

How to stitch a neckline with facing

 Facing means  a piece of material sewn inside of the garment,especially at the neck and armholes to strengthen it. In this tutorial, I'm gonna tell you how to stitch a neckline with facing.

Firstly, stay stitch around the neckline immediately after cutting the neckline. Now, place the neckline on the folded fabric as in Image 1.

Image 1

  Mark along the neckline carefully as in Image 2.

Image 2

Mark  extra 1 1/2" from the neckline towards outside of the neckline (that is "RR")  PP is original neck line and P R is the width of the neckline facing (image 3).

Image 3

cut the neckline facing (both along RR and PP) Image 4

Image 4

After cutting the neckline facing, stitch the outer side of the edge by folding 1/2"inward and sew along the shape to prevent the threads coming out from here and there along the edges.

Image 5 neckline facing

Lay the right side of the neck line flat, Place the facing on top (,right side to right side). Match the facing around the neckline edges and pin the facing in place (.Image 6)

  

Image 6

Stitch  a seam  at  1/2" in from the edge along the neckline edge . Take care that the seam line follows the curve.   When  stitching  the neckline curve,  stitch slowly and  smoothly, raise the pressure foot and turn  the fabric through slightly  and lower the pressure foot and continue stitching.  Be careful and don't straighten the fabric otherwise it will lose its shape. Clip the seam allowance around the neck  edge with intervals. but don't cut the seams as Image  7
,

Image 7

 pressing the seam allowance towards facing, understitch and  turn the facing towards inside of the neckline. image 8

Image 8

After turning the facing,  topstitch the edge along the neckline image 9 .

that's it!! u re done!!!!  

TIP: You can make necklines of various shapes with this technique, not just a circular one.

        You can also use this technique and add a border to your neckline line as done in this tutorial. 

Please share ur experiences in the comments below.. :) Thanks everybody!!

Another Kurti Idea...

one more kurti that i sewed just yesterday... purple.. one of my fav colors.. with 3/4 sleeve . 

the design below the neckline... i embroidered it.. the green border is actually modified buttonhole stitch.. there's a mirror in the centre bounded by red colored mirror stitch.. the yellow part is a stitch known as 'kamala stitch' .. yeah.. thats same as my name :).. the red around the yellow is chain stitch..

i hope u liked it.. c u all soon.. till then take gud care of urselves... b'bye everyone...

How to stich Square step border neckline

Square step border neckline 

A -B , C-D          -   The neck width

A-C ,  C-D          -   Neck depth 

 I  have taken neck width 2 1/2 or 3 inches,and neck depth

7 inch. see  the below fig. 1

                                                                 fig1

C - E                          -    neck width

 D                               -     midpoint of the C -E. That means  C - D , D - E is1 1/4. see the below fig 2

Fig 2

       measure 2 inches upward  like fig 3

                                              Fig 3

    C -D , E - F, F- G  is 1 /14 inch,  which is already mentioned in the fig 2

   C - E , D - F                   - 2 inch.  Draw the lines and cut the neck line piece along    

   the marking, as in fig 4 and fig 5.

  

Fig 4

Fig 5

 fig 6 shows the border cloth which i  have used as a border of the neckline.

Fig 6

 Fig 7

 place the main neckline cutting piece over the folding of the border piece (fig 7),  draw and  cut along the main neckline as  shown in the fig 8.

Fig 8

fig 9 shows,  the border piece and main piece necklines after cutting.

Fig 9

Fig 10

 Now place the right side of the  border piece over the wrong side of the main piece,it means the right and wrong sides are together.like fig 10, for convenience, pinning both of the pieces along the neckline (fig 11 )

Fig 11

In the fig 12 the blue line indicates the stitching line.

Fig 12

  the fig 13 shows after stitching of the neckline.

Fig 13

Cut slightly the stitched neckline here and there. the figures 14 and 15 shows

Fig 14

Fig 15

Fig 16

Flip the border piece towards the right side of the main piece as in fig 16 and 17.

Fig 17

 

The fig 18  and 19 indicates right   and wrong side of the neckline after fliping

Fig 18

Fig 19

 If you want  add the  cross pieces  to the design as in fig.20, cut the fabric tube into two pieces ,each measuring length 2-3 as in fig.20 and attach the fabric  tubes to the wrong side of the neckline. (only corner to corner) here is the link for the fabric tube tutorial

fig 20

now stitch the edges of the neckline where  the borderline is flipped towards the right side of the neckline as in fig 21 and 22.

Fig 21

Fig 22

 Fold the raw edges of the border and attach the main piece as in

fig 23

Fig 23

 final figure of the neckline shown in fig 24 and 25.

Fig 24

Fig 25

the width of the border -as you wish.