Simple Easy tutorial on sewing a bias strip

Hey sew-lovers! Time for another tutorial. In this post, we are going to see how to sew a bias strip.

We have to start with a triangular (preferably an isosceles one, obtained on folding a square in half  diagonally) (Fig.1)

Fig. 1

Draw parallel lines as in fig. 2.  The width of each piece and the total number of pieces is upto you to decide.

Fig. 2

Cut along the drawn lines. As said earlier, you can have as many poieces as you want... this would determine the length of your bias strip.(fig. 3)

Fig. 3

 Keep all the pieces horizontally and cut the extra small triangular pieces as in fig. 4

Fig. 4

THe next aspect is joining two pieces. Look at the two pieces in fig. 5. Keep the two pieces one over the other such that 'B' of the 2nd piece coincides over 'A' of the first piece. Take a diagonal stitch as in fig. 6

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Then, trim off the extra triangular part as in fig 7.

fig. 7

Turn over. You must have got something like fig. 8

fig. 8

Keep adding the rest of the pieces in the same manner to increase the length. And the bias strip is done!!

Hope this tutorial helps.....

How to stitch a Flat-Felled seams

Everybody!! I'm here with yet another tutorial. So this post is  about Flat-Felled Seams.

Flat-Felled Seam keeps the raw edges hidden and allows them to lie flat along the seam allowances. Also, the seam will have a neat finish and the dress looks good on both sides (inside and out). Flat-felled seam includes a pair of stitch lines one of which is seen on one side and the other seam line on the other. So, it can be sewn inside or outside.

If you want to show the flat- fell seam on the wrong side of the dress, sew the right sides together.

                                     

                            

 After sewing, press the seam open on both sides .

On one of the sides of the seam allowances, mark a line 1/2" half of the seam allowances (the dotted lines in the image below).

                             

Trim only one side of the seam allowance where dotted . 

 Press the  untrimmed seam allowance over the trimmed allowance. Fold the pressed seam allowance under the raw edge of the trimmed seam allowance.

.

Then edge stitch close along the fold, such that  all the raw edges are inside. (as in above fig flat-felled seam  shows on the wrong side of the dress.)

The image above shows the right side of the dress.

If you want to show the flat-felled seam on the right side of the dress, then keep the wrong sides together and sew it. and follow the same method  as above said.

In  the above fig the flat-felled seam is shown on the right side of the dress.

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Sewing tutorial

 I have already posted the method of drafting kurti/Straight - Cut  Kameez here is the link drafting tutorial

  Cutting

Fold the fabric according to the hip measurement that is  1/4th of hip + 1.5".and mark the measurements directly on the cloth according to the draft.  

Length                 =               O - L

Neck width          =               O - A

Shoulder              =               O - D

Shoulder drop      =               D - F

Armhole              =               D - E

Chest                   =               From fold to C.

Waist length        =               O-H

Waist                   =                P-Q

hip length            =                O-J

Hip                      =                J-K 

When finished  ,cut along the shape (along the marked scissors in fig 2)

Remember one thing that you have to cut the front and back neckline separately. Also note that you have to cut the front and back armhole separately.  

Fig 2

After cutting, the kameez will look like the one in fig 3.

Fig 3 after cutting 

FIg 4

Cut the sleeves according to the draft. Cut the inner curve shape at the front armhole

(fig 5&6).

Fig 5

Sleeves Fig 6

 First finish the back neckline and front neckline separately.

Fig 7 Back neckline

 Then join the shoulders.

Fig 8 

Sew the back neckline with hand hem or machine stitch. In fig 9 the dotted line indicates hem or machine stitch.

Fig 9

Place center point of the sleeves at the shoulder line (joint) by  keeping right sides together and also matching the armhole front curve to sleeves' front curve. (in Fig 10, O indicates the shoulder joint and N is center of the sleeves) leave 1/2"  from the edge, for seam allowances .

  

Fig 10

Keep pins binding the sleeves to armscye (armhole) and sew along the seam line.  I have shown  the seam line by marking the dots in   the fig 11 .

Fig 11 Sleeves attaching

after attaching the sleeves. 

fig 

fig 13

Join the side edges of the sleeves and right sides of the body together and mark the seam line  by keeping  1" seam allowance from the edge. Start sewing from sleeves and up to slit/side opening.

 (keeping slit length  from hip circumference that is J K  to bottom of the kameez, Repeat the same for the other side of the garment too.
 You can easily understand through the figs 14&15

Fig 14

fig 15 sewed the sides

Fig 16 indicates the slit or opening

Slit opening fig16

Stitch the bottom edge of the kameez by  double folding inside. Stitch the Back and front bottom edges separately.

Slit opening

Stitch the slit from the side edge of the back part to that of the front part, 1/2" above through the joining of the kameez by folding in double towards inside. When you are stitching from back to front, before going to front, stop  1/2" above  where the slit open turn the kameez towards you, stitch across the foldings.

Again turn towards you and start stitching at the end by folding the sides. the images 17,18 and 19 give clear information

Pin over double fold on the back side edge towards the wrong side of the kameez. Start stitching from  bottom to  till 1/2" above of the joining of the sides of kameez,. There, you turn the fabric towards you and stitch across the folding and another side and  turn again and continue stitch until you reach the edge.
Repeat the whole thing for the other side of the garment.

Images 17

image 18

Image 19

How to sew Shoulder

Hello friends! Today, in this tutorial i'm going to teach how to sew shoulder for any garment. 

First finish the front neck line and then stitch the back neckline.  Attach the facing at top side as   picture 1. Don't enclose the edge of the facing, after joining the shoulder, you can stitch on your machine or hand hem.

fig 1

Keep the  back shoulder and front shoulder right sides together and keep the edges and sides coinciding. (see fig 2)

Fig 2

open the facing of the back neckline and keep in line with front neckline.Fig 3

Fig 3

 Turn the facing over the front neckline . Pin it and sew along the dotted lines fig 4

fig 4

  after joining the shoulder it should something like  fig 5

Fig 5

  Now  attach  the back neckline facing to neckline. The dotted line in Fig 6 indicates hand hem/ straight stitch on machine as you wish. Fig 6.

Fig 6

 you can use this method of sewing the shoulders for dresses and frocks and other garments.

Stay-Stitching tutorial

Hello everybody! Here i'm again with another tutorial in the series 'sewing techniques". After having learnt how to do top-stitching, under-stitching we will now see how to stay-stitch.


It is best to stay stitch soon after cutting the neckline. It is stitched only on a single layer of fabric. It prevents the stretching of the curved or angled edge as they are cut across the bias. The bias cut fabric is more stretchable and eventually they lose its shape. Stay stitch is best for retaining the neckline shape.

Stitch the regular length along the curve or bias within the seam allowance. These seams are not visible on the  right side of the garment.

If you Stitch  the neckline, then it is good to start from one shoulder to  the center of the neckline,  and turn the piece and then  start again to sew from the other shoulder to the center of the neckline. Or you can also start from the center and sewing to one shoulder, turn the piece again and sew the center to shoulder.