Friday, October 23, 2015

How to sew kali Salwar / Panel Salwar

Hey Sewaddicts!! Time to learn something new! So, in this tutorial we're gonna learn how to make a panel pyjama/ kali salwar. Okay! easy.. Don't worry.. its really simple. You will find the drafting method for a kali salwar in my earlier post. So, in this tutorial we will see the cutting & sewing parts.

CUTTING:
  
After cutting the waist piece you have to cut the center piece. 
Open the full width of the fabric. 
First, fold the fabric into half its width (that is AB is 2 layers). 
Again fold the fabric half width-wise that is fold A over B or such that C mid point of the AB. 
Now you have got 4 layers of the fabric. 
On this folded fabric, Mark the required length of the salwar part (here, this required length is = salwar full length minus waist piece length) +1" (Figure Salwar center piece Cutting 1) 


Salwar center piece Cutting 1
Cut the center piece according to the length Fig .2.

Fig 2

Open the second fold that is "C".  You have got 2 center pieces (2 layers) that is AB.
Cut along the fold that is A A (fig.1). Separate the 2 cut layers. The fig 3 shows the two centre pieces.
Fig 3 Center pieces

Now, for the side pieces the length would be same as that you took for the center piece and width would be half the width of the fabric. Draw a line across the corners as Fig 4 and cut it along the line. Fig 5.
Side pices/kali
Fig 4

Fig 5
 you have got 4 kalis  Place the kalis one over the other. Fig 6.



Fig 6
 Mark the crotch length and draw curves for the crotch and the inner side of the kali as shown in the fig. 7 and cut along these curves. (Figure 8)

Fig7

fig 8. kali

 Fig 9 shows the waist pieces, ankle fabric and facings.


Fig 9
  Fig.10 shows all the kali salwar pieces after cutting. Now that we are done with the cutting part, let's move on to the stitching part.

 fig 10 kali salwar  pieces

STITCHING

Facing - bottom opening (The ankle part)  

Take a strip of fabric with width as (double the width of the interface you are going to attach  +1") and its length would be (1/2 of ankle circumference) or  (the width of center piece in Fig 1)

Fig 1

Take the interface (with width as 1/2 width of facing(as in the step above) and length being the same as the facing). As in fig 2, place the interface on the wrong side of the facing and cover it.
                                                 
Fig 2


Attach the interface to the right side of the center piece at the bottom (that is where your ankle part would be) and stitch the two together. The pins in fig.3 indicate the seam line.
                                                                              
Fig 3 attaching interfacing

 After attaching and stitching, turn the interfacing towards the wrong side of the center piece. Next, top stitch on the right side (fig 4).                                           

Fig 4

Stitch the other edge of the facing (which is towards the wrong side) again onto the wrong side as in Fig 5. Now you have 2 parallel seam lines - one each over each edge of the facing.
                                           Fig 5
                                       
Create rows of top stitching with either a straight stitch (as i have done in this picture below) or any other decorative stitch of your choice.


Fig 6
Now lets move onto the main salwar part. Keep the side pieces/the kalis on each side of the centre piece respectively lengthwise and sew. Do the same for the other side too. 

Fig 7 joining the center and side pieces 
 After having finished joining of the pieces together, it should look as in the figs 8,9.
Fig 8 finished joining the kali

Fig 9
After that, sew the crotch part, attach the waist piece to the leg/salwar pieces all the way creating frills. For rest of the finishing process, you will find the instructions here in this tutorial.


So, there you are... done with kali salwar/ panel pyjama. It is a very trendy dress. It is very popular in 
India as a casual wear. You can pair it up with a short/long kurti or even a t-shirt. (It looks cool with a t-shirt.!!) I hope this tutorial would be of great help to you. For any queries and doubts or requests, please comment below.. and keep waiting for other interesting easy-to-learn tutorials..

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