Monday, October 5, 2015

Kali Salwar / Panel Salwar drafting

Today, we will learn how to draft a pattern for making a kali salwar/panel salwar. this tutorial is helpful for totally new beginners & novice starters as well as for practiced sewers.

The Kali salwar or panel salwar drafts looks like fig 1.
According to this pattern drafting you can directly cut the fabric.      
fig. 1   Kali salwar draft
Measurements needed for  kali salwar 

Length of salwar
Ankle circumference
Crotch            = 1/3rd of hip +2" (total crotch length measurement)

Method of panel / Kali salwar pattern drafting

waist piece

 Draw a straight line from point L to point M  ,that is (1/2 of hip) + 3 1/2"(or 1/2 of (hip +6"+1"))
 L to M, double fold
 suppose your waist is 40"= 1/2 of hip means 20"+3"(it means the  final waist piece should be 46" + 1" (seam allowance))

 If the width that is L M is not sufficient width and then attach  fabric of required width to MN but make sure that the total waist  piece measurement is hip + 6 " as said earlier.

 Again  draw  a straight vertical line downwards from point M  to  Point N such that MN= (1/6 hip) + 2"

 ON is same as LM

Fig 2

Center piece / panel drafting
   Fold the cloth in 4 folds in width wise.        
   Draw a vertical line  from point A to point D which will be length    of the salwar minus waist belt.
   Draw a horizontal line form point D to Point C that will be 1/4 of    width of the fabric.
   Please note that for children,
   AB =    half of the ankle +1"
fig 3
Side panels 

Take the same measurements as center panel from  point E to point K .
Draw a horizontal line From point E to Point G which will be half width of fabric. 
GI is same as EK.
KI is same as EG.
Measure down from point G to Point H which will be crotch length that is total crotch length+ waist belt/piece.
Mark 1" inwards that is point F.Give a curve shape and connect the point H. 
Mark the 1/2 ankle circumference  + 1" seam allowance at the bottom which are Points K J.

Joint the points J H and give little curve shape  inside.

                                                                      fig 4

After joining the side pieces to the center piece the salwar leg piece looks the figure below. 


Cut the center piece and side pieces separately.