Today, we will learn how to draft a pattern for making a kali salwar/panel salwar. this tutorial is helpful for totally new beginners & novice starters as well as for practiced sewers.
The Kali salwar or panel salwar drafts looks like fig 1.
According to this pattern drafting you can directly cut the fabric.
|fig. 1 Kali salwar draft|
Measurements needed for kali salwar
Length of salwar
Crotch = 1/3rd of hip +2" (total crotch length measurement)
Method of panel / Kali salwar pattern drafting
Draw a straight line from point L to point M ,that is (1/2 of hip) + 3 1/2"(or 1/2 of (hip +6"+1"))
L to M, double fold
suppose your waist is 40"= 1/2 of hip means 20"+3"(it means the final waist piece should be 46" + 1" (seam allowance))
If the width that is L M is not sufficient width and then attach fabric of required width to MN but make sure that the total waist piece measurement is hip + 6 " as said earlier.
Again draw a straight vertical line downwards from point M to Point N such that MN= (1/6 hip) + 2"
ON is same as LM
Center piece / panel drafting
Fold the cloth in 4 folds in width wise.
Draw a vertical line from point A to point D which will be length of the salwar minus waist belt.
Draw a horizontal line form point D to Point C that will be 1/4 of width of the fabric.
Please note that for children,
AB = half of the ankle +1"
Take the same measurements as center panel from point E to point K .
Draw a horizontal line From point E to Point G which will be half width of fabric.
GI is same as EK.
KI is same as EG.
Measure down from point G to Point H which will be crotch length that is total crotch length+ waist belt/piece.
Mark 1" inwards that is point F.Give a curve shape and connect the point H.
Mark the 1/2 ankle circumference + 1" seam allowance at the bottom which are Points K J.
Joint the points J H and give little curve shape inside.
After joining the side pieces to the center piece the salwar leg piece looks the figure below.