Detailed Tutorial - Palazzo Pants

Palazzo pants are trendy now-a-days. They can be worn with a long kurti or even a short top or a t-shirt. So lets learn how to make one.

DRAFTING and CUTTING

Front pieces

A-B    =     D-E     =     width of bottom of the pant + 2"

Width of the bottom can be kept as much as desired. you can keeep it more if you want it loose. Usually the bottoms of palazzo pants are quite wide but i preferred medium width. So, I've taken 12" +  2" (seam allowances)

AD    =      BE      =      length of your pant (please note: do not add 1" for seam allowance here as we will atttach a separate waist belt)

BC    =       Crotch length obtained by Total length (AD=BE)/4 

Draw a line MC parallel to AB

O is the mid-point of AB.

P is the mid-point of DE. Join OP. This line crosses the above line at R.

G to 2   =    0.5"

take your hip measurement. Divide it by 4. Add 2". this is the MC length. Let this be 'm'. now mark 'm/2' from R both sides and mark "M and "C".that,is, R is the mid-point of MC.

For example if your hip measurement is 40, then 40/4 = 10 + 2" = 12".then 12/2 = 6" = MR = RC.

AF     =   TM + 1" Join MF with a curve.

FG     =    (Your waist measurement + 2)/ 4

Draw a straight line from G to H.

Draw a curve from G to C as in this fig.

Measure 14" (your knee length)from E and mark N. 

Knee width, LK = MC-1" such that S is the mid-point of LK. ( in the example above, LS=SK = 5.5")

Again take the points z and z' just like L and K above but ZP = PZ' = MR = RC (i.e. 6" in the above example). 

Now cut along FM , MT and TD. Also cut along GC' and C'E. The front pieces are now ready.

Back pieces

Place the cut front piece over folded fabric for cutting back pieces. The red lines indicate the front piece and the blue lines indicate the back pieces in the given fig. Mark S such that GS = 1" and T such that CT = 2". Mark S' such that E'S' = 1.5" now join T and S' as shown. Mark A' and D' cut along the line. Also cut along STS'. Now, you obtain two back pieces.

Fig. Cutting the pieces

STITCHING:

Join the crotch areas of the two front pieces. Also do the same with the back two pieces. 

Now, join the outer side edges of the left front and back leg pieces together and stitch along the length. Do the same way to the right-sided pieces also Next, take a strip of cloth of width = twice the desired width plus 1". length would be that of your waist measurement + 1". This is your waist belt.
Attach the belt to the waist and insert the elastic.  Now stitch the bottom edges in double fold. Lastly close all the open edges of  the leg pieces (obviously except for the bottom opening!!)

* For more information on how to attach the waist belt, you can refer to my earlier post legging stitching method

And.. your palazzo pant is ready!!

How to Stitch an 'A'-line Kurti

This tuorial is on making an "A"-Line Kurti. It is very easy and the draft pattern is quite similar to that of a straight-cut kameez/kurti except for that it widens as we move down and has a flare.  

You can find the drafting in this tutorial. You should note that here, the width AB is (hip + 3"). Hip measurement would be as mentioned in the above tutorial (RS). Take extra 1" along the whole length as seam allowance.

If you would like to give the bottom a curve shape as I've done, then you should mark C as  the midpoint of AB and also BD = 3". Join the points making a curve. YOu can therwise simply go with the straight pattern as it is also equally popular.

The edges of the sides can either be closed or left often as a slit. Further steps are similar to the one in the kameez sewing tutorial. 

Happy sewing!!

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Sewing tutorial

 I have already posted the method of drafting kurti/Straight - Cut  Kameez here is the link drafting tutorial

  Cutting

Fold the fabric according to the hip measurement that is  1/4th of hip + 1.5".and mark the measurements directly on the cloth according to the draft.  

Length                 =               O - L

Neck width          =               O - A

Shoulder              =               O - D

Shoulder drop      =               D - F

Armhole              =               D - E

Chest                   =               From fold to C.

Waist length        =               O-H

Waist                   =                P-Q

hip length            =                O-J

Hip                      =                J-K 

When finished  ,cut along the shape (along the marked scissors in fig 2)

Remember one thing that you have to cut the front and back neckline separately. Also note that you have to cut the front and back armhole separately.  

Fig 2

After cutting, the kameez will look like the one in fig 3.

Fig 3 after cutting 

FIg 4

Cut the sleeves according to the draft. Cut the inner curve shape at the front armhole

(fig 5&6).

Fig 5

Sleeves Fig 6

 First finish the back neckline and front neckline separately.

Fig 7 Back neckline

 Then join the shoulders.

Fig 8 

Sew the back neckline with hand hem or machine stitch. In fig 9 the dotted line indicates hem or machine stitch.

Fig 9

Place center point of the sleeves at the shoulder line (joint) by  keeping right sides together and also matching the armhole front curve to sleeves' front curve. (in Fig 10, O indicates the shoulder joint and N is center of the sleeves) leave 1/2"  from the edge, for seam allowances .

  

Fig 10

Keep pins binding the sleeves to armscye (armhole) and sew along the seam line.  I have shown  the seam line by marking the dots in   the fig 11 .

Fig 11 Sleeves attaching

after attaching the sleeves. 

fig 

fig 13

Join the side edges of the sleeves and right sides of the body together and mark the seam line  by keeping  1" seam allowance from the edge. Start sewing from sleeves and up to slit/side opening.

 (keeping slit length  from hip circumference that is J K  to bottom of the kameez, Repeat the same for the other side of the garment too.
 You can easily understand through the figs 14&15

Fig 14

fig 15 sewed the sides

Fig 16 indicates the slit or opening

Slit opening fig16

Stitch the bottom edge of the kameez by  double folding inside. Stitch the Back and front bottom edges separately.

Slit opening

Stitch the slit from the side edge of the back part to that of the front part, 1/2" above through the joining of the kameez by folding in double towards inside. When you are stitching from back to front, before going to front, stop  1/2" above  where the slit open turn the kameez towards you, stitch across the foldings.

Again turn towards you and start stitching at the end by folding the sides. the images 17,18 and 19 give clear information

Pin over double fold on the back side edge towards the wrong side of the kameez. Start stitching from  bottom to  till 1/2" above of the joining of the sides of kameez,. There, you turn the fabric towards you and stitch across the folding and another side and  turn again and continue stitch until you reach the edge.
Repeat the whole thing for the other side of the garment.

Images 17

image 18

Image 19

Kali Salwar / Panel Salwar drafting

Today, we will learn how to draft a pattern for making a kali salwar/panel salwar. this tutorial is helpful for totally new beginners & novice starters as well as for practiced sewers.

The Kali salwar or panel salwar drafts looks like fig 1.

According to this pattern drafting you can directly cut the fabric.      

fig. 1   Kali salwar draft

Measurements needed for  kali salwar 

HIP/Seat

Length of salwar

Ankle circumference

Crotch            = 1/3rd of hip +2" (total crotch length measurement)

Method of panel / Kali salwar pattern drafting

waist piece

 Draw a straight line from point L to point M  ,that is (1/2 of hip) + 3 1/2"(or 1/2 of (hip +6"+1"))

 L to M, double fold

 suppose your waist is 40"= 1/2 of hip means 20"+3"(it means the  final waist piece should be 46" + 1" (seam allowance))

 If the width that is L M is not sufficient width and then attach  fabric of required width to MN but make sure that the total waist  piece measurement is hip + 6 " as said earlier.

 Again  draw  a straight vertical line downwards from point M  to  Point N such that MN= (1/6 hip) + 2"

 ON is same as LM

Fig 2

Center piece / panel drafting

   

   Fold the cloth in 4 folds in width wise.        

   Draw a vertical line  from point A to point D which will be length    of the salwar minus waist belt.

   Draw a horizontal line form point D to Point C that will be 1/4 of    width of the fabric.

   

   Please note that for children,

   AB =    half of the ankle +1"

fig 3

Side panels 

Take the same measurements as center panel from  point E to point K .

Draw a horizontal line From point E to Point G which will be half width of fabric. 

GI is same as EK.

KI is same as EG.

Measure down from point G to Point H which will be crotch length that is total crotch length+ waist belt/piece.

           

Mark 1" inwards that is point F.Give a curve shape and connect the point H. 

Mark the 1/2 ankle circumference  + 1" seam allowance at the bottom which are Points K J.

Joint the points J H and give little curve shape  inside.

 

                                                                      fig 4

After joining the side pieces to the center piece the salwar leg piece looks the figure below. 

                                                                                 fig5

Cut the center piece and side pieces separately.

How to Make a Simple Salwar- Part 1 -Drafting

     

 Hello friends..!!! here's me with another tutorial. I'm back again but after a long gap.. Well I feel  great to be blogging again.

 So, today i'm gonna tell you how to make a simple salwar.  I'm covering this in about 3 posts. I have  provided the links to the remaining posts at the end of this post.

 At first, we're gonna learn the drafting part. Follow the instructions carefully.

 For making a simple salwar, obviously you will require fabric. :). see the fig. 1. Now spread your  fabric (ABCD). fold it in half lengthwise (that is along GH) and then width-wise (along EF).

Fig. 1

Measurements Needed

• Length of the Salwar
• Hip 
• Ankle Circumference ( Bottom opening)

Drafting of the pattern (Refer Fig.2) 

 AC  =  BD    =        Full length of salwar

 AB  =  CD    =        Half of the width of fabric
 AE  =  BF     =        Waist length                                                
 EC  =  FD     =        Length of the salwar  + 1"                                                      

 FH                =        Crotch length

 FG                =        1" inward

 CJ                 =        1/2 of the ankle

 JI                  =         1"  seam allowance

Fig. 2

Waist (Refer to Fig. 3)

LM          =          1/2  of the  Hip measurement + 4"

ON           =         1/6 of the hip + 2" ( for casing and joining the salwar leg piece)

LO is on fold   that is you fold the fabric double in width         

Fig. 3

 For bottom opening    you cut the strip of a fabric of width 3" and  length of  is equal to CI  (ankle Circumference that is in fig 2). 

Fig. 4

So, you have completed the drafting part.. You are now ready to cut the fabric..
Follow the next post for 'Cutting' details
Also check out the 'sewing' part  later..

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Drafting tutorial

It is easy to make a kurti .Here you can learn how to make a kurti through drafting. 

      

     Pattern Drafting

   

     A-B;      C-D                 =              1/4  of  Chest  + 1.5"or 2"

     A-C;      B-D                  =              length  +1 .5" or 1"

     A-E ;      H-I                  =              1/12 of  chest +1/4" 

     A- F                               =              1/2 of shoulder

     B-L;       F-O                 =              1/4 of chest - 1.5 inch.

     A- H                              =               front neck 1/6  

     A- G                              =               back neck  ( the deep of the front and back neck as desired)

     M-N                              =              1/2 inch

     A-P                               =               waist length  ( below the  Breast) ,   

     P-Q                               =               1/4 of waist +1.5" 

     A-R                                =              hip length

     R-S                                =              1/4 of hip +1.5"

     First you mark the shape of armhole "F-M-L". this is back armhole.

     Next take 1/2"   from "M" inside and mark give a shape "N"as in fig front armhole.

    Shoulder drop ( F-J)         =   Mark 1/2"  

  

    Cutting

  

    Give a shape and cut along  "D-L-M-F and  J to E".

    You have to cut the back neck  "G-E". and front neck  "H-E" separately

    Back armhole shape "L-M-F" 

    Now Cut the front armhole shape separately that is L ,N,F.            

   Sleeve:-

  

   A-B ,C-D                            take the same armhole measurement as in kurti or sleeve width +1.5"

   A-C                                     length +  1.5" 

   B -E                                    1/12 of chest  

   K -H                                   inside 1/2".

   C - G                                  half of sleeve round + 1"

   Draw the shape and cut along the outside marking (G -E -K -F)to obtain the shape of the sleeve.

   After getting the shape again you have to cut the front sleeve depth  that is "F-H -E" as front        armhole depth.

   These measurements are including seam allowances.

Sleeve

Simple Pyjama

pattern drafting;

measurements

Hip circumference
Ankle
length

pattern making; 
                            Fold the cloth in 4 layers and then you take the measurements.
  a-b, c-d           -      1/4 hip measurement + 5"
a-c,  b-d          -      pajama length + 3.5"
j-k                  -      ankle loose + 1" ( it is loose at the ankle so i have taken the measurment
                               6"+1"=7")                     
j-c                  -      folding 1"
a- e                -      waist belt ( double width of the belt ) width + 1/2''
e- j                 -      pajama original  length
b-g                 -      3/4"
f- h                -      crotch/3
the measurements are  including  the stitches.
I have not attached the waist belt separately so my elastic casing is including the pajama measurement which is shown as  marking  'a-e' , if you want to attach the belt separately then you have to take  the length measurement as original length + 1.5 inch ( that is e-c ) and the belt is double the width + 1".  Cut the fabric from bottom to crotch and crotch to g.
The sewing method is same as legging

How to stich Square step border neckline

Square step border neckline 

A -B , C-D          -   The neck width

A-C ,  C-D          -   Neck depth 

 I  have taken neck width 2 1/2 or 3 inches,and neck depth

7 inch. see  the below fig. 1

                                                                 fig1

C - E                          -    neck width

 D                               -     midpoint of the C -E. That means  C - D , D - E is1 1/4. see the below fig 2

Fig 2

       measure 2 inches upward  like fig 3

                                              Fig 3

    C -D , E - F, F- G  is 1 /14 inch,  which is already mentioned in the fig 2

   C - E , D - F                   - 2 inch.  Draw the lines and cut the neck line piece along    

   the marking, as in fig 4 and fig 5.

  

Fig 4

Fig 5

 fig 6 shows the border cloth which i  have used as a border of the neckline.

Fig 6

 Fig 7

 place the main neckline cutting piece over the folding of the border piece (fig 7),  draw and  cut along the main neckline as  shown in the fig 8.

Fig 8

fig 9 shows,  the border piece and main piece necklines after cutting.

Fig 9

Fig 10

 Now place the right side of the  border piece over the wrong side of the main piece,it means the right and wrong sides are together.like fig 10, for convenience, pinning both of the pieces along the neckline (fig 11 )

Fig 11

In the fig 12 the blue line indicates the stitching line.

Fig 12

  the fig 13 shows after stitching of the neckline.

Fig 13

Cut slightly the stitched neckline here and there. the figures 14 and 15 shows

Fig 14

Fig 15

Fig 16

Flip the border piece towards the right side of the main piece as in fig 16 and 17.

Fig 17

 

The fig 18  and 19 indicates right   and wrong side of the neckline after fliping

Fig 18

Fig 19

 If you want  add the  cross pieces  to the design as in fig.20, cut the fabric tube into two pieces ,each measuring length 2-3 as in fig.20 and attach the fabric  tubes to the wrong side of the neckline. (only corner to corner) here is the link for the fabric tube tutorial

fig 20

now stitch the edges of the neckline where  the borderline is flipped towards the right side of the neckline as in fig 21 and 22.

Fig 21

Fig 22

 Fold the raw edges of the border and attach the main piece as in

fig 23

Fig 23

 final figure of the neckline shown in fig 24 and 25.

Fig 24

Fig 25

the width of the border -as you wish.