Wednesday, October 7, 2015

How to Make a Simple Salwar - Part 3 - Sewing

Hey folks!  In my earlier post I showed  how to cut the pattern. (& here's the first part - drafting)
Continuing the simple salwar making series, here's the third part - the sewing. So, lets start. 
First take the waist piece, if the waist piece circumference is not enough, attach extra fabric which is sufficient for your waist. 
Finally, you acquire the waist measurement, that is your actual waist size +6" or 7" that means if your waist is 40 you'll get 46" or 47".
After that, the two raw edges (circumference) are sewn together, the fig 1 shows the waist piece/belt. 

                                                                          Fig 1 waist belt

  For casing, the upper raw edge of the belt will be folded 1/2" inside.  Again fold 1" on the wrong side, that means it will be folded twice and the edge will be secured with top stitch. Fig 2.

fig 2

To insert the draw string, open the seams in the center where you sew the sides together. The fig 3 shows the detail.

fig 3 waist belt casing

For facing, take a strip of fabric which should be the length of the ankle measurement as I have mentioned in the drafting tutorial. The width of this strip would be double of the width you  want  +1" seam allowance (if the width is 1", then you take 3" when you fold  the strip 1 1/2" one side,) 

Place the facing in half, at the ankle length, right side to right side and stitch down. Fig 4 shows the seam line.  

fig. 4

After attaching facing fold it inwards and then top stitch along the fold on the right side.  Fig 5.

fig. 5

Stitch along the lower edge of the facing  where the pins have been pinned. fig 6. & fig 7 show right side.

fig 6

fig 7
Finish  with straight line seams the along the ankle length as in fig 8. the yellow and/or blue line seams are then sewed over the straight line seams.            
fig 8
     Now keep aside the waist belt. Sew the right leg and left leg salwar pieces,  right sides of  crotch together. Front and back crotch are sewn separately.  Check out fig 9.

                                                                Fig 9 crotch attaching 

 fig 10 shows  attachment of  the crotch.

Fig 10

Keep the waist belt in equal portion for front & back and mark it.
Attach  the waist belt front  mark to  front  crotch  right side to right side and pin it front and back separately. fig 11 indicates the joined pieces.  From there, you sew the belt and leg portion together by facing right sides together and  keeping pleats all throughout ( as shown in Fig 12 & 13 )  up to the back crotch portion. Continue in the same way for the other leg portion up to the front. Keep in mind that the pleats should be in equal width for  both the legs and  must be facing each other.

FIG 11
Fig 12         

fig 13
You can clearly understand this through the figures are 14 and 15.    
Fig 14

Fig 15
  Stitch the top stitch on the right side  after your finishing to attach the waist belt to the salwar leg portions, as fig 16.

fig 16

join the leg portions from one ankle to the other ankle by joining the crotch along the seam line by keeping right sides together (Figures 17 and 18).

Fig 17

Fig 18
Insert the draw string throw the casing. as in Fig 19, 20.

Fig 19

FIG 20
So, the finished salwar would look like the ones in Figures 21, 22       

Fig 21
Fig 22.

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