Continuing the simple salwar making series, here's the third part - the sewing. So, lets start.
First take the waist piece, if the waist piece circumference is not enough, attach extra fabric which is sufficient for your waist.
Finally, you acquire the waist measurement, that is your actual waist size +6" or 7" that means if your waist is 40 you'll get 46" or 47".
After that, the two raw edges (circumference) are sewn together, the fig 1 shows the waist piece/belt.
Fig 1 waist belt
For casing, the upper raw edge of the belt will be folded 1/2" inside. Again fold 1" on the wrong side, that means it will be folded twice and the edge will be secured with top stitch. Fig 2.
To insert the draw string, open the seams in the center where you sew the sides together. The fig 3 shows the detail.
|fig 3 waist belt casing|
For facing, take a strip of fabric which should be the length of the ankle measurement as I have mentioned in the drafting tutorial. The width of this strip would be double of the width you want +1" seam allowance (if the width is 1", then you take 3" when you fold the strip 1 1/2" one side,)
Place the facing in half, at the ankle length, right side to right side and stitch down. Fig 4 shows the seam line.
After attaching facing fold it inwards and then top stitch along the fold on the right side. Fig 5.
Stitch along the lower edge of the facing where the pins have been pinned. fig 6. & fig 7 show right side.
Fig 9 crotch attaching
fig 10 shows attachment of the crotch.
Keep the waist belt in equal portion for front & back and mark it.
Attach the waist belt front mark to front crotch right side to right side and pin it front and back separately. fig 11 indicates the joined pieces. From there, you sew the belt and leg portion together by facing right sides together and keeping pleats all throughout ( as shown in Fig 12 & 13 ) up to the back crotch portion. Continue in the same way for the other leg portion up to the front. Keep in mind that the pleats should be in equal width for both the legs and must be facing each other.
join the leg portions from one ankle to the other ankle by joining the crotch along the seam line by keeping right sides together (Figures 17 and 18).
So, the finished salwar would look like the ones in Figures 21, 22